Gumbo Soil - Gulf Coast Gardening

A Beautiful Garden Starts Now: Memorial Day means gardening for many

gumbosoil — Thu, 17 May 2012 16:52:37 +0000

Photo credit: Melinda Myers, LLC

By MELINDA MYERS

Gardening expert, TV/radio host, author & columnist

Get out the shovel and trowels – it’s Memorial Day weekend and that means gardening for many. Spend a bit more time getting your garden off to a good start and reap the benefits all season long. Proper planting and post planting care means less maintenance, fewer pests and more produce and beautiful flowers in your landscape.

Start by selecting healthy plants free of insect and disease problems. There’s no need to spend money on problems. And keep in mind that bigger is not always better. Instead look for compact plants with sturdy stems. The leaves should be deep green or the proper color for that variety. Avoid plants that show signs of stress such as spots, brown leaf edges, and holes. And when all things are equal, purchase the perennials with multiple stems.

Keep your purchase properly watered before and after planting. Check transplants daily and twice a day when temperatures rise, watering as needed. Increase success and reduce the stress transplants often face. Apply a plant strengthener such as JAZ Spray to protect potted plants from drying out until you are able to plant. Or apply to transplants to get your plants off to a vigorous start. These organic products are not fertilizers but rather naturally occurring molecules that work like an immunization to help new and established plants better tolerate heat, drought, insects, disease, and other challenges plants face.

Prepare the soil before planting. Though not glamorous building a good foundation for your garden will pay off this season and beyond. Dig one or two inches of compost, peat moss or other organic matter and a low nitrogen slow release fertilizer into the top 12 inches of the soil.

Now slide, don’t pull, the plants out of their containers to avoid damaging their roots and stems. If they resist, gently squeeze small flexible pots or roll larger pots on their sides over the ground. This loosens the roots, releasing the pot from the container.

Gently tease any roots that encircle (girdle) the root ball. Or use a knife to slice through girdling roots or the tangled mass that often develops at the bottom of the pot. This encourages the roots to explore the soil beyond the planting hole. And a bigger root system means healthier plants that are more productive and beautiful.

Set your plants at the same depth they were growing in their container. Tall leggy tomatoes are the exception. These can be planted deeper or in shallow trenches to encourage roots to form along the buried stem. Cover the roots with soil and gently tamp to insure good root to soil contact. Water new plantings thoroughly; moistening the rootball, planting hole, and beyond. Spread a thin layer of shredded leaves, evergreen needles or other mulch over the soil to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and keep the roots cooler when hot weather moves in for the summer.

Check new plantings every other day and water thoroughly and often enough to keep the soil slightly moist. Gradually reduce the frequency until your plants only need to be watered once a week in heavy clay soils and twice a week in sandy soils. Of course you’ll need to water more often in hot weather.

And don’t forget about the rest of your landscape. Plant strengtheners can be applied to established plants to prepare them for the often stressful season ahead. Treated plants will be better able to tolerate heat and drought as well as attacks from insects and diseases.

So get out and start planting to make this the best gardening season yet.

Editor’s note: Nationally known gardening expert, TV/radio host, author & columnist Melinda Myers has more than 30 years of horticulture experience and has written over 20 gardening books, including Can’t Miss Small Space Gardening. She hosts the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment segments which air on over 100 TV and radio stations throughout the U.S. and Canada. She is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and writes the twice monthly “Gardeners’ Questions” newspaper column. Melinda also has a column in Gardening How-to magazine. Melinda hosted “The Plant Doctor” radio program for over 20 years as well as seven seasons of Great Lakes Gardener on PBS. She has written articles for Better Homes and Gardens and Fine Gardening and was a columnist and contributing editor for Backyard Living magazine. Melinda has a master’s degree in horticulture, is a certified arborist and was a horticulture instructor with tenure. Her web site is www.melindamyers.com

Chinese elm prone to problems

gumbosoil — Thu, 17 May 2012 16:42:52 +0000

Dear Jim,

I saw your article in the Pearland Journal, Thursday, May 17th.

I am just an amateur gardener who enjoys gardening and the results thereof.

I have been looking for a Master Gardener to give me advice on two problems I have in my garden.

1.) I have, I believe to be, a young chinese elm we planted in our garden three years ago. It has been thriving and still looks like it is, but, I have seen tiny white spots on the leaves. Also a few of the leaves have turned brown or yellow. I have tried to find out what it is to no avail so far.

We have another young elm, looks different than other elm, more willowy, and I am worried that this fungus, if it is that will effect this tree. We have only just planted it this Spring. This same ‘fungus’ is on my holly bushes. What is it and is there anything I can do to clear it up? Will it kill the trees?

2.) I have these red bugs that have been all over my butterfly tree/bush. I looked them up on the internet and I believe them to be the nymph stage of some leaf footed bug. They are longish with red/orange body and black spidery legs. If I’m not mistaken they said they were bad news. Never seen them before this Spring. Seems like they suck the life out of flowers and tender leaves and they are. I was shocked to see they had dangling from their legs two honeybees they had killed. I have noticed some of the leaves have brown spots on them now.

I have been squashing them as I see them, do not want to put pesticides on the tree and kill the bees. I have sprayed the holly bushes they are on. I see them on some other flowers of mine. Do you know what they really are and what advice can you give me?

I really appreciate any help you can give me.

Sue Allen

Pearland, TX

Hi Sue,

1) If you have Chinese Elm you’re going to have problems sooner or later. Though it grows almost anywhere these trees routinely have numerous problems. I can’t say with any certainty what your tree’s problems are without seeing a photo. But it could be beetle damage or powdery mildew. I wouldn’t plant one and if I had one I’d dig it up faster than you can say hackberry. They’re prone to various diseases and insect damage and their brittle wood has a tendency to break apart in storms faster than most trees. Powdery mildew and/or fungus happens more often with overwatering or too much rain. If it is powdery mildew it can be treated with a solution of garden sulphur. This won’t cure the infected leaves but it will protect the healthy ones. Again, I can’t say for sure without seeing them, but that’s what it sounds like.

2) Sounds like stink bugs, the two-spotted juvenile variety. I pick them off and drop them in a cup of soapy water (or use a dust buster). There are also non-organic pesticide options. If you see one similar to these, it is usually an assassin bug, which you want because it kills pests. When you see more than one together, or clusters of tiny ones, those are baby stink bugs, and they will damage your plants.

Two spots means stink bug babies

gumbosoil — Thu, 17 May 2012 16:06:07 +0000

Two-spotted stink bugs suck the juices from leaves and fruits. This type of stink bug also attack caterpillars and beetles.

Jim,

My friend Margie sent me a picture of some bugs that are all over her zucchini & cucumber plants. Are they a problem? Do they need to be exterminated? If so, how does one get rid of them?

Rachael

Rachael,

Those are immature stink bugs. I pick them off and drop them in a cup of soapy water (or use a dust buster). There are also non-organic pesticide options. If you see one similar to these, it is usually an assassin bug, which you want because it kills pests. When you see more than one together, or clusters of tiny ones, those are baby stink bugs. One way to tell them apart is the stink bugs have wider, flatter back legs.

The dreaded Bermuda invasion

gumbosoil — Thu, 17 May 2012 15:36:33 +0000

Bermudagrass emerges in a rosemary bed (lower corner).

Hi Jim:

How do I eradicate Bermuda grass from a St. Augustine lawn? I believe the source of the Bermuda to be sand I hauled in a few years ago. With last years drought, it really took over as the St. Augustine was stressed and died in patches. On some bare spots I have treated with Roundup now for the third time and MAY have it under control. I don’t want to spray Roundup where the Bermuda is coexisting with the St. Augustine. I would have to treat at least 25 percent of may yard. I do not want it to spread further.

On a side note, every time I walk into a garden store and see Bermuda grass seed on the shelf, it raises my blood pressure. Obviously, those who plant it can’t contain it.

Ken Brog

Hi Ken,

Unfortunately once Bermuda is introduced or mixed into a lawn with another variety (a common practice in gumbo soil territory) it is almost impossible to eliminate. It grows in just about any soil, handles drought very well, doesn’t develop thatch and is very aggressive. It is one of the worst weeds I deal with on a regular basis.

It also spreads by stolons and rhizomes so even little pieces left behind (if you’ve rooted up clumps by hand) can form new growth. Bermudagrass goes dormant in winter and comes back strong in the spring.

I don’t like to see it either, but it is low maintenance and works well with St. Augustine so I don’t think you’re ever going to see it gone from store shelves.

Short of getting a tractor and box blade and stripping off the topsoil, I know of no other organic method to rid a piece of property of Bermudagrass once it has a foothold.

Watch the watering on those watermelons

gumbosoil — Tue, 15 May 2012 16:04:48 +0000

Give watermelon seeds plenty of space to grow in full sunlight.

The watermelon seeds went in the ground on Mother’s Day, a few weeks later than usual but still plenty of time for the personal types I like to grow, like Sugar Baby and Moon and Stars.

Growing watermelons, I have found, is one of the more misunderstood processes in the garden. Many people believe watermelons need lots of water. Actually, they originated in the Nile valley and do not need a lot of water because of single deep tap roots. And they are typically sweeter with less rain than with abundant rain. Last year’s drought reaffirmed that theory, at least in my opinion.

So how do you grow sweet watermelons? First off, avoid the monster varieties. Farmers can grow these because they have plenty of space in the field and for storage. Most of us want sizes that will fit in the fridge without removing shelves. I’ve found the personal melons mentioned about ideal (5-15 pounds) for that reason and because of their excellent taste.

Moon and Stars is an heirloom named for the celestial pattern of yellow moon and stars on a dark green rind. The plants grow easily in hot weather and the have spotted foliage similar to the fruit.

All watermelons need plenty of space. I planted a 40 foot row of seeds, 2-3 per planting, with each planting four feet apart. I left 10 feet on either side of the row. When the seeds emerge I will thin to one plant and put mulch down on either side, covering the 10 feet of open area. This will give the melons something to sit on besides soil, lessening the chance of rind rot and also helps keep the weeds down.

In around 90 days I should have ripe melons to pick and enjoy.

Knowing when the melons are ripe takes experience. There are several ways to determine ripeness but not are foolproof (except taste of course). I like to combine all tests and then make a decision. Even then, however, it’s not always accurate.

– Melons that aren’t ripe are shiny green, as they ripen the green becomes duller.

— Check the bottom of the melon where it was sitting on the mulch. If it’s white, it’s probably not ready. If it’s creamy yellow, it may be ready.

— Press your fingernail into the rind. If it does not easily give it’s unripe.

— Check the tendril (where the vine joins the fruit). If the tendril is dead it may be ripe. If it’s not dead, it is unripe.

— The time honored thumping for hollow sound to detect ripeness is as much art as science. But give it a try on different melons, you might hear the difference and learn from it.

I do all of these tests if I think a melon may be ready. More often than not, if it passes a few tests, it’s ready.

Determining when a watermelon is ripe takes practice.

The dangers of tree work

gumbosoil — Mon, 14 May 2012 16:42:49 +0000

TCIA PRESS RELEASE

As reported by The Smithville Times of Smithville, Texas, a local man died in late April after falling an estimated 35 feet from a tree he was working on. This sobering accident is a stark reminder of the dangers of tree care and highlights the need for tree care companies, along with homeowners/property managers who hire them to uphold the highest standards for worker safety.

“Unfortunately for the industry overall, serious accidents seem to be increasing,” says Peter Gerstenberger, arborist for the Tree Care Industry Association (TCIA). “We need to transform the industry and create a safety culture that will keep all tree workers safe in an inherently hazardous occupation.”

To help prevent similar incidents from occurring in the future, homeowners looking for tree care companies should:

Hire a qualified tree care company. Find one at www.treecaretips.org.
Ask for current certificates of liability and workers’ compensation insurance, if applicable.
Ask for local references, and check on the quality of their work and level of service.
Verify professional affiliations the company might have, such as memberships in business and/or professional organizations, or Accreditation with the Tree Care Industry Association.
Insist on a signed contract as to cost, dates when work is to be performed, and exactly what is to be done.
Get a second opinion and quote.

In these tough economic times, homeowners are tempted to go with the lowest bid, or even to attempt tree work themselves. “Either scenario can be extremely risky,” cautions Gerstenberger. “As this accident demonstrates, pruning large limbs, felling trees and especially climbing into trees are hazardous activities even for trained professionals.”

With over seven years of field experience as an arborist and 25 years of working in safety, compliance and education, Gerstenberger is a nationally recognized source for tree care standards of practice. He is the Senior Advisor for Safety, Compliance & Standards advisor for TCIA.

About the Tree Care Industry Association (TCIA): Founded in 1938, TCIA is a public and professional resource on trees and arboriculture. It has more than 2,000 member companies who recognize stringent safety and performance standards and who are required to carry liability insurance. TCIA also has the nation’s only Accreditation program that helps consumers find tree care companies that adhere to industry standards for quality and safety; maintain trained, professional staff; and are dedicated to ethical and professional business practices. With access to the latest and best safety standards and training, the typical TCIA member company has 50% fewer accidents than a typical non-member.

Better late than never bearded iris bloom arrives

gumbosoil — Fri, 11 May 2012 20:15:39 +0000

A bearded iris blooms in Pearland.

I haven’t had a lot of like with Iris (the bulb) over the years, not that I’ve spent a lot of time trying to grow them. But my wife likes to grow bearded irises, as did her mother in Iowa, so we’ve kept a few specimens here and there for sentimental reasons and because we’re not afraid of a challenge.

This year, for the first time in a long while, one of the bulbs bloomed (photo above). From checking with other Master Gardeners who specialize in flowering bulbs, we likely hit most of the prerequisites for bearded iris during the past year.

Which include giving the plants at least six hours of sun per day and no mulch. Mulch keeps the soil moist and bulb rhizomes can rot if they get too wet. Rhizomes are the root-like strings at the base of the bulb.

We watered only when the soil was very dry. We did fertilize the bulbs with anything other than sea kelp every other month (low nitrogen fertilizers are recommended). We also gave them good circulation, irises do not like to be crowded.

The next steps we should take are pruning back dead foliage in the fall and as this is the third year, we will probably divide the bulb clumps.

Who knows, we may get the hang of this yet!

Muddy Advice: What to do in the garden in May

gumbosoil — Thu, 10 May 2012 20:06:07 +0000

Okra, like this Burgundy variety, can be planted this month.

By Donna Fay Hilliard

Organic Horticulturist

May Issue

Average temperature: High 86, Low 66.

Seeds to plant: Arugula rocket, Basil, Beans (Asparagus, Lima/Butterpeas, Yard long), Bitter Melon, Cucumbers, Eggplant, Egusi Melon, Fenugreek, Okra, Peanut & Goober pea, Perilla (Shiso), Pigon Pea, red radishes, Rice, Roselle/Jamaican sorrel, Squash, Southern Pea, Summer Savory, Sweet Sorghum, Tapioca, Winter melons.

Cuttings, roots: Ginger root, Jerusalem artichoke tuber, Sweet potato slips, Bonaito sets, Taro tuber.

Plants to plant: Chile, Carlic chives, Lemon Grass, Peppers.

To Dos

— Bookmark the webpage: http://sweorgsol.dynalias.com

— Facebook Sweet Organic Solutions.

— Start a gardening journal. Keep things like temperatures, rain, what was blooming, what you planted and where, what didn’t do well, etc. It is amazing what I forget, especially those bulbs that haven’t poked their heads up yet. And reminders of what I didn’t do and need to do, like collecting seeds.

– Think about what you are planting to save seed for next season or next year.

– Utilize old varieties and heirlooms because hybrids will not germinate to true.

– Refrigerate leftover see or share, too bad we can’t have root cellars here.

— Think about learning to preserve abundant crops by either canning or drying. Learn to eat what is in season.

— Bring me insects or diseased plants for identification if you are not sure what it is.

Beneficial nematodes: They are hungry and want your fleas, fire ants and grubs.

Editor’s note: Donna Fay Hilliard is an Organic Horticulturist and owner of Sweet Organic Solutions, 2710 Main St., Pearland, TX, 77581. She can be reached at (281) 997-1900. Her Muddy Advice column appears monthly at GumboSoil.com.

Many varieties of peas can be planted during May.

USDA grants to increase Farmers Market participation in SNAP

gumbosoil — Wed, 09 May 2012 17:44:13 +0000

The Highland Village Farmers Market in Houston.

WASHINGTON, D.C. — Agriculture Deputy Secretary Kathleen Merrigan today (Wednesday, May 9, 2012) announced awards to help States expand availability of wireless technology in farmers’ markets not currently participating in the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP). The $4 million in funding provides SNAP participants greater access to fresh and healthy food, while supporting American farmers and local economies.

“Our country’s 7,100 operating farmers markets offer opportunities to our children and their families to access healthy food across the country,” said Deputy Secretary Merrigan. “SNAP participation at farmers’ markets helps provide fresh fruit and vegetables to families and expands the customer base for local farmers – a win-win for agriculture and local communities.”

In the past, farmers’ markets, which usually do not have access to phone lines or electricity, have had difficulty redeeming SNAP benefits through the Electronic Benefit Transfer (EBT) system. As a result of funding provided by the Consolidated and Further Continuing Appropriations Act, 2012, States may provide wireless equipment to currently non-participating farmers’ markets, opening the door for their participation in the Program.

“This funding will help SNAP customers increase their opportunities to access healthy, local foods,” added Deputy Secretary Merrigan. “And evidence suggests they will take advantage of that access. When we couple this approach with strategies like the education, cooking demonstrations, and community support often found at farmers markets, consumption of healthy foods should rise even more.”

There are currently over 1,500 farmers markets using EBT technology. Since 2008, SNAP expenditures at farmers markets have risen by 400 percent.

In addition to the these federal funds being provided now to state agencies, USDA’s Food and Nutrition Service (FNS) will soon post a Federal Register notice that will solicit public input on how best to use such funds in the future. As of the end of the last fiscal quarter, there were 1,548 farmers’ markets participating in SNAP. USDA is looking to expand the number of participating farmers’ markets and increase annual SNAP redemptions at these locations.

FNS administers 15 nutrition assistance programs that, in addition to the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program and National School Lunch Program, also include the Special Supplemental Nutrition Program for Women, Infants and Children, and the Summer Food Service Program. Taken together, these programs comprise America’s nutrition safety net.

USDA National Farmers Market Directory lists farmers markets that accept SNAP and these other federal nutrition programs. It is available at http://farmersmarkets.usda.gov. With over 2 million page views last year, the directory is an easy-to-use tool that allows users to search for markets based on location, available products, and types of payment accepted—including participation in Federal nutrition programs. Newer features allow directory users to locate markets based on proximity to zip code and to see links to active farmers market websites. The USDA Farmers Market Directory is based on self-reported information provided by the market managers. Market Managers can update their market’s information for the 2012 season at www.usdadirectoryupdate.com

Winning battles key in the war on weeds

gumbosoil — Wed, 09 May 2012 12:36:53 +0000

Corn gluten meal spread around a young fig tree.

I don’t know anyone who loves to weed their garden or lawn. We do it because it is necessary and part of the overall process. But if your knees and back are begging you to find another way besides hands on to get those pesky dandelions and crabgrass out of your cucumber patch there are some steps you can take to make the job easier.

Probably the most important step is, after planting your crops, flowers, herbs or whatever, put down a thick layer of mulch. My preference is shredded hardwood, but other varieties will work fine. It’s a matter of color and use preference. A general rule of thumb is the finer the particles the quicker it will decay and add organic matter to your soil.

There is a product, however, that can help keep weed seeds from germinating. Corn gluten is a natural weed and feed fertilizer. Gluten is a byproduct of the corn milling process and is typically used in livestock feeds.

Used in your garden it is a natural pre-emergent weed control as it impacts the germination rate of seeds. That’s all seeds, not just the ones you don’t want, so be careful. Don’t use it in an area where you are going to plant seeds or if your weeds have already come up. It’s fine to use around established plants, it will not harm them and when it breaks down it releases nitrogen to the soil, feeding the plants.

Another drawback is corn gluten meal is not cheap. A 40-pound bag can set you back around fifty bucks.